A few stormy days in Norway in December

December 26, 2022

A few stormy days in Norway in December

Last year December, I had a week or so between my old job, a Christmas family holiday, and my new job, so I decided on doing something I'd wanted to do for a few years: experiencing what the north was like early in winter. So I took the bus and train to Dovrefjell, Norway, for a short snowshoe and camping trip. And oh boy, I sure did learn why early winter is not considered proper wintersport season in the north. Snow and weather and ice conditions were all tough, and the few daylight hours did also not help me cover any actual distance. Nevertheless I really enjoyed myself - marvelling at the beautiful light lasting the whole short day, musk ox sightings, being utterly alone in the snowy mountains, and a really festive looking Trondheim. A true little December treat.

Thin, loose snow cover and untrustworthy ice

Already stopping for the day at 15:00 o'clock because dusk was falling and a storm was on its way, so I wanted to have my tent piched securely. About an hour after I took this photo it was pitch black and a snow storm was raging outside my tent.

Loved the fresh snow on these branches the next day, though.

This early in the season, the snow deck is barely enough to cover the rough underground of shrubbery and boulders, and when it does it has not quite settled yet, so your foot can fall through without warning. A lots of times I stumbled. A few times I even fell flat on my face. Trecherous conditions!

Crossing rivers and marshes is a hassle when the water is only half frozen. I stepped through the ice multiple times. Luckily it never was deep.

On the way to the Hjerkin railway station at the end of my trek. This road was literally covered in ice and I was grateful I had my microspikes with me.

Beautiful early winter light and long nights

Beautiful sunrise colours at the little Kongsvold train station, from where I set off. There's a DNT mountain hotel near this station. This early in the season however, it was still closed.

Melting snow inside the tent for tea and dinner during a snow storm one long evening. Cooking outside was no option, but I could unclip and fold back a corner of the inner tent, so I could set up my cooking equipment inside (just make sure to ventilate well). The next morning a lot of snow had piled up against my tent.

Breaking up with a gorgeous sunrise.

Snow storms and sleet

A day of gale force winds and low visibility caused by snow drift.

Low sun beautifully illuminating the snow that's being blown about by the hard wind.

Driving sleet made the last day of my trek an uncomfortable one, but the many rainbows were an advantage.

Snow disappearing fast beneath the rain.

Musk ox sightings

Musk ox - a massive relative of the goat - were reintroduced to Dovrefjell years ago, and are faring well there. I spotted this herd from my tent. Unfortunataly, it was already getting dark so I couldn't get much closer (better to keep a safe distance anyway).

A herd spotted from even father away, barely visible in the snow drift (they're huddled together in the top left of the photo).

Thought this iron one was real for a few moments. In my defense, visibility was very bad that day.

Finish in Trondheim

After my short snowshoe trek I took the train from Dovrefjell to Trondheim to explore the city for a few days before heading back home. This city has some obvious English influences. The location is beautiful, laying by the sea and between forested hills, but sadly there's a lot of traffic going right through the center and to me it doesn't quite have the same charm as for example Bergen or Tromso. But there's some interesting buildings to see and the holiday lights and decorations were marvelous. There's really great effort being put in brightening up this dark period of the year.